Stem Stitch Embroidery: How to Stitch Smooth Stems and Curves
Stem stitch makes a twisted, rope-like line. Each stitch overlaps the previous one by about half its length, and the working thread always stays on the same side of the line. It is the classic stitch for flower stems, vines and smooth curved outlines, and close rows of it fill narrow shapes. It is also called stalk stitch or crewel stitch. When the thread is kept on the other side of the needle, the same movement is called outline stitch.
How to do stem stitch, in short: make a stitch along the line, then bring the needle up halfway back along that stitch, keeping the thread on the same side every time, and take the next stitch forward. The overlapping stitches twist into a rope-like line.
| Difficulty | Beginner |
| Used for | Stems, vines, curved outlines, script lettering, narrow fills |
| Thread | 2–3 strands of stranded cotton; 4–6 for thick stems |
| Needle | Embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7–9 |
| Stitch length | 3–5 mm; 2–3 mm on tight curves |
What You Need
- Fabric in a hoop, drum-tight. Even tension on the fabric gives an even twist.
- A marked line. See our guide to transferring embroidery patterns to fabric if you need one.
- Stranded cotton, perle cotton or wool. All of them work; stranded cotton gives the smoothest twist, perle cotton a more defined rope.
- A plan for curves. On a curve, stem stitch is smoothest when the thread lies on the outside of the curve, so choose which end of the line to start from.
How to Work Stem Stitch
These instructions work from left to right with the thread kept below the line. Left-handed stitchers can mirror them.
- Bring the needle up at the start of the line (A).
- Go down one stitch length along the line (B), but do not pull the thread tight yet.
- Come up halfway between A and B, with the working thread below the needle. Now pull the thread through so the first stitch lies flat.
- Go down half a stitch length beyond B.
- Come up at B, in the same hole as the end of the previous stitch, with the thread still below.
- Repeat: down half a stitch beyond the last stitch, up at the end of the previous one. Keep the thread below for the whole line.
- Finish by going down at the end of the line, then run the thread under a few stitches on the back.
The start and end of a line are only one stitch thick, so they can look thinner than the rest. Making the first and last stitches half length keeps the line the same thickness all the way.
Curves, Points and Thickness
Stem stitch gets thicker as the stitches get longer, as the strands increase, and as the needle slants across the line instead of following it.
| Look | Strands | Stitch length |
|---|---|---|
| Fine stem, tendrils, script | 1–2 | 2–3 mm |
| Standard stems and outlines | 2–3 | 3–4 mm |
| Thick stems, branches | 4–6 | 4–5 mm |
On tight curves, shorten the stitches so the line does not flatten into straight segments. For a stem wider than about 3 mm, work two or three rows of stem stitch side by side, all in the same direction. At a sharp point, such as a leaf tip, end the line at the point and start a new line from it rather than turning the stitch around.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
| Problem | Why it happens | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| The line looks flat, like back stitch | The needle comes up at the end of the previous stitch instead of halfway back | Come up halfway along the previous stitch, so each stitch overlaps the last. |
| The twist changes direction mid-line | The thread switched sides of the needle | Keep the thread on the same side for the whole line. Check it before every stitch. |
| Curves look angular or gappy | Stitches too long for the curve | Shorten them to 2–3 mm and keep the thread on the outside of the curve. |
| The line is bumpy and too thick | Too many strands, or overlapping by more than half | Use fewer strands and overlap by half a stitch. |
| The start and end look thin | Only one stitch thickness at the ends | Make the first and last stitches half length. |
| Fabric shows between rows in a fill | Rows too far apart or worked in different directions | Work rows close together, all in the same direction. |
Whipped and Raised Stem Stitch
- Whipped stem stitch. A second thread is wrapped over the finished line without entering the fabric, which smooths the twist into a rounded cord. Use the same colour for a thicker stem or a contrast colour for a candy-stripe line.
- Raised stem stitch. A ladder of short straight stitches is laid across the shape first; rows of stem stitch are then worked over the ladder without going into the fabric, building a raised, woven-looking fill for baskets, tree trunks and bark.
- Portuguese stem stitch. Each stitch is wrapped twice before the next one, giving a knotted, beaded rope.
Where to Use Stem Stitch
- Flower stems and vines. The rope-like twist looks natural on stems, and it is the stitch most patterns use for them.
- Curved outlines. Rounded animals, petals and leaves, where back stitch would look angular.
- Script lettering. Flowing handwritten words in 1–2 strands.
- Branches and grasses. Several rows side by side for a thick branch; single lines for long blades of grass.
- Narrow fills. Close rows fill stems, hair and small areas with a ribbed texture.
Stem Stitch vs Outline Stitch vs Split Stitch
- Outline stitch: worked the same way, but with the thread kept on the other side of the needle. The twist goes the other way and the line looks a little narrower and smoother.
- Split stitch: the needle comes up through the previous stitch instead of beside it. Flatter and smoother, with no twist.
- Back stitch: stitches end to end without overlap. Finer, but less smooth on curves.
- Chain stitch: linked loops. Bolder and more decorative, for when a stem should stand out.
For an overview of all the basic stitches, see our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.
Practice on a Real Pattern
Every pattern below uses stem stitch, along with other basic stitches. The first one is a beginner pattern.
More new patterns that use stem stitch: Sleeping Bumblebee on a Dandelion, Grazing Deer in the Meadow, Mallard Duck on the Water and Blue Swallowtail Butterfly.
New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern
All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:
Stem Stitch FAQ
What is the difference between stem stitch and outline stitch?
Only the side of the needle the thread is kept on. Stem stitch and outline stitch twist in opposite directions; outline stitch looks slightly narrower.
Which side should the thread be on in stem stitch?
Always the same side for the whole line. Below the needle is the usual way; on a curve it is easiest with the thread on the outside of the curve.
How many strands are best for embroidered stems?
Two or three strands for most stems, four to six for thick stems, or several rows side by side.
How do I stem stitch tight curves?
Shorten the stitches to 2–3 mm and keep the thread on the outside of the curve.
