Split Stitch Embroidery: How to Get Smooth Lines and Edges
Split stitch makes a smooth line with a fine, braided texture, a little like a very narrow chain. Each new stitch comes up through the middle of the previous one and splits its strands in two. It is used for outlines and curves, for filling small areas with close rows, and as an edge under satin stitch and long and short stitch, where it gives the fill a crisp, slightly raised border. It is an old stitch: medieval English embroidery used rows of split stitch to fill whole faces and robes.
How to do split stitch, in short: make one straight stitch on the line, then bring the needle up through the middle of that stitch, splitting the strands, and take it down one stitch length ahead. Repeat, always coming up through the middle of the previous stitch.
| Difficulty | Beginner |
| Used for | Outlines, curves, small fills, edges under satin and long and short stitch |
| Thread | An even number of strands: 2 for most lines, 4 for a bold line |
| Needle | Embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7–9 |
| Stitch length | 3–4 mm; 2 mm on tight curves |
What You Need
- An even number of strands. With 2 or 4 strands, the needle divides the thread into two equal halves. With an odd number, one side is always thicker and the line looks lopsided.
- Stranded cotton or crewel wool. Perle cotton is tightly twisted and does not split cleanly.
- Fabric in a hoop, drum-tight. You need to hit the centre of the stitch precisely, which is hard on loose fabric.
- Good light. Tilt the hoop so you can see where the needle point comes up under the previous stitch.
How to Work Split Stitch
- Make the first stitch: bring the needle up at the start of the line and go down one stitch length along it.
- Come up through the middle of that stitch from the back, so the needle point divides the strands evenly, half on each side.
- Pull the thread through until it lies flat; the split closes around the new stitch.
- Go down one stitch length further along the line, measured from the point where you came up.
- Repeat, always splitting each stitch at the same point, about halfway along it.
- Shorten the stitches on curves so the line bends smoothly.
- Finish on the back by running the thread under a few stitches before cutting it.
Some stitchers prefer to pierce the previous stitch from the front instead: make a stitch, then take the needle down through its middle from above and continue. The finished line looks almost the same, and it can be easier to see the split. Choose one method and use it for the whole line.
Filling a Shape and Making Edges
To fill a small shape, work rows of split stitch side by side, following the outline and moving inward. Keep the rows close, so no fabric shows between them, and stagger the stitches of neighbouring rows so the splits do not line up. This gives a dense, smooth fill that follows curves well, for example in feathers, hair or small petals.
As an edge, split stitch is worked along the outline of a shape before the fill. Satin stitch or long and short stitch is then worked over it, with the needle going down just outside the split stitch line. The edge stays sharp and slightly raised, and the fill stitches are easier to keep even.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
| Problem | Why it happens | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| The line looks lopsided | An odd number of strands, or the needle comes up off-centre | Use 2 or 4 strands and come up exactly in the middle of the stitch. |
| The line looks like back stitch, with no split | The needle came up beside the previous stitch instead of through it | Tilt the hoop to see the stitch, or pierce the stitch from the front. |
| A lumpy, bulky line | Splitting at different points, or very short stitches with many strands | Split each stitch at the same point and keep stitches 3–4 mm long with 2 strands. |
| Curves look angular | Stitches too long for the curve | Shorten the stitches to about 2 mm wherever the line bends. |
| The thread frays and fuzzes | Splitting wears the thread | Use 40–45 cm lengths and start a new thread when it looks worn. |
| Fabric shows between rows in a fill | Rows too far apart | Place rows right next to each other and stagger the stitches. |
Where to Use Split Stitch
- Curved outlines. Stems, hair, tails and any line that needs to flow.
- Edges for fills. Under satin stitch and long and short stitch, for a crisp, slightly raised border.
- Small fills. Close rows following the shape fill feathers, petals and small areas of colour.
- Lettering. Script letters, where the line should be smooth without visible joins.
- Fine detail lines. In 2 strands it is narrow enough for legs, beaks and veins.
Split Stitch vs Stem Stitch vs Back Stitch
- Stem stitch: the thread lies beside the previous stitch rather than through it, so the line twists like a rope and is slightly thicker.
- Split stitch: flatter and smoother, with a braided look and no visible joins. It also fills shapes better.
- Back stitch: short stitches end to end. Finer and more precise for tiny details, but the segments are visible.
For an overview of all the basic stitches, see our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.
Practice on a Real Pattern
Every pattern below uses split stitch, along with other basic stitches. The first one is a beginner-friendly pattern.
More new patterns that use split stitch: Koi Fish and Lotus, Blue and Orange Betta Fish, Sailboat by Green Hills and Smiling Shark with Seaweed.
New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern
All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:
Split Stitch FAQ
Why should I use an even number of strands for split stitch?
So the needle divides the thread into two equal halves. With an odd number, one side is always thicker and the line looks uneven.
What is the difference between split stitch and stem stitch?
In split stitch the needle comes up through the previous stitch; in stem stitch it comes up beside it. Split stitch is flatter and smoother, stem stitch is twisted and rope-like.
Why is split stitch used under satin stitch?
It gives the satin stitch a firm, slightly raised edge to cover, so the outline of the shape stays sharp and even.
Can you fill a shape with split stitch?
Yes. Work close rows side by side, following the outline of the shape and moving inward.
