Bullion Stitch
A bullion stitch is a tight coil of thread that lies on the fabric like a small caterpillar. You wrap the thread around the needle many times, pull the needle through the wraps and lay the coil between two points. It is also called a bullion knot, and in older books you will see coil stitch, roll stitch, post stitch or worm stitch. It is the stitch behind bullion roses, rosebuds, wheat ears, lamb wool and curly hair. Most problems with it come from two things: the number of wraps does not match the length of the stitch, or the needle is the wrong type.
How to do a bullion stitch, in short: bring the needle up at A, go down at B and come back up at A without pulling the needle through. Wrap the thread around the needle until the wraps cover the A–B distance, hold them, pull the needle through and lay the coil flat, then go down at B.
| Difficulty | Intermediate: easy to learn, needs practice to make it even |
| Used for | Roses and rosebuds, small flowers, wheat ears, curls, wool and raised details |
| Thread | 2–3 strands of stranded cotton, or perle cotton No. 8 or 12 |
| Needle | Milliner (straw) needle, long enough to hold all the wraps |
| Wraps | Enough to cover the distance between A and B, plus 1–2 extra |
What You Need
- A milliner (straw) needle. Its eye is no wider than the shaft, so the coil slides off it. With a regular embroidery needle the wraps get stuck on the eye. For long bullions, choose a longer needle: the shaft must hold the whole coil.
- Fabric in a hoop, drum-tight. The needle stays in the fabric while you wrap, and slack fabric makes the wraps uneven.
- A shorter length of thread. About 40 cm. The thread is pulled through the wraps every time and wears quickly.
- Smooth thread. Perle cotton gives the clearest coil. With stranded cotton, separate the strands and put them back together before threading.
How to Work a Bullion Stitch
- Bring the needle up at A and pull the thread all the way through.
- Insert the needle at B, where the bullion should end, and bring the tip back out at A. Push it out only partway and leave it in the fabric. The distance from A to B is the length of the finished bullion.
- Wrap the working thread around the needle next to the fabric, always in the same direction. Lay each wrap beside the last one: snug, not tight, never on top of each other.
- Keep wrapping until the coil on the needle is as long as the distance from A to B, plus one or two wraps.
- Hold the coil lightly between the thumb and forefinger of your other hand and pull the needle through it. Keep pulling until all the thread is through and the coil lies down towards B.
- Settle the coil. Pull the thread gently towards B so the wraps close up. If they look loose, slide the needle under the coil and stroke it while you tension the thread.
- Take the needle down at B, right at the end of the coil, and pull it through to the back.
How to Make a Bullion Rose
A bullion rose is built in rounds, from short straight bullions in the centre to longer, curved ones on the outside. Add a couple of extra wraps to the outer bullions so they curve around the centre.
| Round | Bullions | Length and wraps | Colour |
|---|---|---|---|
| Centre | 2–3, side by side | Shortest; wraps match A–B | Darkest shade |
| Middle | 3–4 around the centre | A little longer; 2–3 extra wraps so they curve | Medium shade |
| Outer | 5–6, overlapping | Longest; 3–4 extra wraps | Lightest shade |
Start each bullion of a round about halfway along the previous one, so they overlap like petals. Two or three lazy daisy leaves finish the rose.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
| Problem | Why it happens | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bare thread shows between the wraps | Too few wraps for the distance A–B | Wrap until the coil is as long as A–B, plus one or two wraps. |
| The needle will not pull through the coil | Wraps too tight, needle eye wider than the shaft, or too many strands | Use a milliner needle, wrap snugly but not tightly, and reduce the strands. |
| The bullion bends or humps up | More wraps than the distance A–B | Remove a few wraps or take B a little further away. If you want a curve, see the looped bullion stitch. |
| Lumpy, uneven coil | Wraps piled on top of each other, or uneven tension | Wrap close to the fabric, push each wrap down beside the last one and keep the same tension. |
| The coil twists sideways | The thread was pulled in the wrong direction when settling | Pull the thread towards B before going down, so the coil lies straight. |
| The thread frays and gets fuzzy | The thread is too long and passes through many coils | Work with about 40 cm and start a new length sooner. |
The first few bullions are rarely even. Work a row of ten on a scrap of fabric before stitching them in a design: by the end of the row the wraps and tension will be much more consistent.
Where to Use Bullion Stitch
- Roses and rosebuds. A single bullion with two green straight stitches makes a bud; rounds of bullions make a full rose.
- Small flowers. Five bullions arranged in a circle around a French knot make a raised daisy.
- Wheat and lavender. Short bullions angled along a stem.
- Wool and hair. Curled bullions packed together for sheep, poodles or curly hair.
- Raised details. Caterpillars, twigs, bee stripes and other small 3D details.
Bullion Stitch vs French Knot vs Cast-on Stitch
- French knot: one or two wraps make a round dot. A bullion uses many wraps and makes a coil. Many stitchers learn the French knot first, because the wrapping motion is the same.
- Looped bullion: the same stitch with extra wraps and A and B close together, so the coil curls into a loop. See the looped bullion stitch.
- Cast-on stitch: instead of wrapping, the thread is slipped onto the needle as loops, as in knitting. The cast-on stitch is firmer and has a textured edge.
- Woven rose: also a raised rose, but woven over straight stitches. The woven rose stitch is quicker and easier for beginners.
For an overview of all the basic stitches, see our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.
Patterns to Practise Your Stitches On
Bullion buds and small roses fit naturally into floral designs. Here are our floral patterns:
New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern
All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:
Bullion Stitch FAQ
Is a bullion knot the same as a bullion stitch?
Yes. Both names describe the same coil of wraps laid between two points. Coil stitch, roll stitch and post stitch are older names for it.
How many wraps do I need for a bullion knot?
Enough to cover the distance between A and B, plus one or two. The number depends on the thread: thicker thread needs fewer wraps for the same length.
Why does my bullion knot curl?
There are more wraps than the length of the stitch. Remove a few wraps, or make the stitch a little longer.
What is the best needle for bullion stitch?
A milliner (straw) needle. Its eye is the same width as the shaft, so the coil slides off without catching.
