Cast-on Stitch
The cast-on stitch is a raised stitch made of thread loops cast onto the needle, the same way stitches are cast onto a knitting needle. When the needle is pulled through, the loops form a firm, raised bar with a knitted edge. It is held at both ends and stands free in the middle, so it can lie straight, curve or form a loop. It is a key stitch in Brazilian embroidery and stumpwork, where it is used for realistic petals, 3D buds and other botanical details. It looks similar to a bullion stitch, but it is firmer and keeps its shape better.
How to do the cast-on stitch, in short: bring the needle up, take a small stitch and leave the needle in the fabric. Cast loops of thread onto the needle with your finger, as in knitting, pack them close, pull the needle through and go down at the other end so the row of loops lies flat or curves.
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
| Used for | Raised petals, roses, buds, leaves and other 3D botanical details |
| Thread | Perle cotton No. 8 or 12, rayon embroidery thread, or 2–4 strands of stranded cotton |
| Needle | Long milliner (straw) needle |
| Casts | Enough to cover A–B for a straight bar; more for a curve or loop |
What You Need
- A long milliner (straw) needle. All the casts must fit on the shaft, and the eye must be no wider than the shaft so they slide off.
- Twisted thread. Perle cotton and rayon hold each cast clearly. Stranded cotton works too, but the casts are softer and less defined.
- Fabric in a hoop, drum-tight. The needle stays in the fabric while you cast on, and both hands are busy.
- A short length of thread. About 40 cm. The thread is pulled through all the casts and wears quickly.
How to Work the Cast-on Stitch
- Bring the needle up at A and pull the thread through.
- Insert the needle at B and bring the tip back out at A. Leave the needle in the fabric, with most of the shaft on top. The distance A–B is the length of the base of the stitch.
- Make a loop over your forefinger. Hold the working thread with your other hand, twist it around your forefinger to form a loop, and slip the loop onto the tip of the needle.
- Slide the cast down the needle and tighten it gently so it sits against the fabric: snug, but still able to move.
- Repeat, making every loop the same way, until the casts cover the needle from A to B (or more, for a curve).
- Hold the casts between thumb and forefinger and pull the needle through them slowly, until the thread lies flat on top of the casts.
- Take the needle down at B and pull it through to the back. Arrange the stitch with the needle before you go on.
How to Control the Shape
As with bullion stitch, the shape depends on how many casts there are compared with the distance A–B.
| Casts compared to A–B | Result | Use |
|---|---|---|
| The same length | A straight raised bar | Stems, sepals, outer leaf edges |
| About one and a half times longer | A curved arch | Rose petals, tulips |
| Many casts, A and B 1–3 mm apart | A closed loop | Round petals, buds |
For a cast-on rose, work a few short straight bars in the centre, then rounds of curved stitches around it, each one starting halfway along the previous one. Count the casts so that petals in one round match.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
| Problem | Why it happens | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Casts slip off or unravel while you work | A loop was formed the other way round | Make every loop in the same direction; a loop formed the wrong way does not grip the needle. |
| The needle will not pull through | Casts too tight, or the needle eye is wider than the shaft | Tighten each cast only until it sits against the needle; use a milliner needle. |
| Casts of different sizes | Uneven tension when tightening each loop | Tighten every cast in the same way, with the same pull. |
| Bare thread shows along the base | Too few casts for the distance A–B | Add casts until they cover A–B, or shorten the stitch. |
| The stitch twists or flops to one side | A long stitch in thin thread | Use thicker thread or more strands, or tack the stitch down with a tiny stitch in the middle. |
| The thread frays and looks fuzzy | The thread is too long | Work with about 40 cm and start a new length sooner. |
If the casts twist off the needle again and again, slow down and look at each loop before you slip it on: the thread should cross the same way every time.
Where to Use the Cast-on Stitch
- Raised roses. Curved casts in rounds around a centre of short bars.
- Tulips and cup-shaped flowers. Two or three arches standing up from the fabric.
- Buds. A single loop with two green straight stitches as sepals.
- Leaves and botanical details. Firm, raised edges that keep their shape.
- Brazilian embroidery and stumpwork. The classic stitch for dimensional flowers in rayon thread.
Cast-on Stitch vs Bullion Stitch vs Looped Bullion
- Bullion stitch: the thread is wrapped around the needle, which gives a smooth coil. The bullion stitch is softer and easier to learn.
- Cast-on stitch: the thread is cast on as loops, which gives a firmer bar with a knitted edge. It holds a curve without collapsing.
- Looped bullion: the bullion version of a curved petal. The looped bullion stitch is a good alternative if you find casting on awkward.
- Double cast-on: a variation worked with two threads and alternating casts, which gives a textured edge on both sides.
For an overview of all the basic stitches, see our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.
Patterns to Practise Your Stitches On
Cast-on petals and buds suit floral designs. Here are our floral patterns:
New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern
All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:
Cast-on Stitch FAQ
What is the difference between cast-on stitch and bullion stitch?
A bullion is made by wrapping the thread around the needle; a cast-on stitch by slipping loops onto it. The cast-on stitch is firmer and has a knitted edge.
What thread is best for cast-on stitch?
Perle cotton or rayon embroidery thread, which keep each cast clearly defined. Stranded cotton works, but gives a softer stitch.
Why do my casts keep coming off the needle?
Some loops are being formed the other way round. Make every loop in the same direction, so each cast grips the needle.
How do I make a cast-on stitch curve?
Add more casts than the distance between A and B. The more extra casts, the stronger the curve.
