Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery: Dense Edges, Scallops and Wheels
Buttonhole stitch is a row of upright stitches packed so closely that no fabric shows between them, joined by a firm looped edge along the base. It is the same movement as blanket stitch, only worked densely. That density makes it the stitch for edges that must not fray: scallops on table linen, cutwork, and, as the name says, the edges of hand-sewn buttonholes. In embroidery it also forms raised wheels, half-moons and solid flower shapes.
How to do buttonhole stitch, in short: bring the needle up on the base line, take it down on the upper line directly above and bring it back up on the base line right next to where it first came up, with the thread under the needle tip. Pull until the loop sits snugly on the base line. Repeat with the stitches touching, so the looped edge forms a smooth, solid ridge.
| Difficulty | Beginner to intermediate |
| Used for | Scallops, cutwork, firm edges, appliqué, wheels and flowers |
| Thread | 1–2 strands of stranded cotton for fine edges; perle cotton for scallops |
| Needle | Embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7–9 |
| Stitch size | Height 2–5 mm, stitches touching |
What You Need
- Two guide lines: the base line, where the looped edge will sit, and the upper line for the tops of the stitches. For a scallop, the base line is the outer curve.
- Fabric in a hoop, drum-tight. Dense stitches pull the fabric, and a slack hoop lets it pucker. See our guide to transferring embroidery patterns to fabric.
- A smooth thread. Perle cotton or two strands of stranded cotton give a crisp ridge; fuzzy or loosely twisted threads blur it.
How to Work Buttonhole Stitch
- Bring the needle up on the base line at the left end.
- Take the needle down on the upper line, directly above or very slightly to the right.
- Bring the tip up on the base line right next to the first stitch, keeping the thread looped under the tip.
- Pull through towards the base line until the loop sits on it without tightening the fabric.
- Repeat with each stitch touching the last. Finish with a tiny stitch over the final loop on the base line.
Right-handed stitchers usually work from left to right; left-handed stitchers from right to left. The looped edge always ends up on the side where the needle comes up.
Scallops and Curves
For a scallop, fill the area between the two lines first with a few rows of running stitch or split stitch. This padding lifts the edge and keeps the stitches even. Work the buttonhole stitch over the padding with the looped edge on the outer curve. On the curve, keep every stitch pointing towards the centre of the scallop: the stitches fan out slightly on the outside and pack tighter on the inside. If the fabric will be cut away, as in cutwork, cut close to the looped edge only when the stitching is finished, using small sharp scissors.
Buttonhole Wheels and Half-Moons
Work buttonhole stitch around a circle with every upright going into the same centre point and the looped edge on the outer circle. The result is a solid wheel, a quick way to stitch a flower head, a sun or a wheel on a cart. A half circle gives a half-moon or a fan-shaped petal. Keep the stitches in the centre from building up by taking every second one slightly short of the centre point.
Buttonhole Stitch Variations
- Closed buttonhole stitch. Pairs of stitches slant towards each other and share a hole at the top, forming triangles along the edge.
- Knotted buttonhole stitch. A small knot is made at the top of each stitch for a beaded edge.
- Detached buttonhole stitch. Rows worked into the loops of the previous row instead of into the fabric, building a raised, lace-like filling for petals and wings.
- Tailored buttonhole stitch. A twist at the base of each stitch makes a harder-wearing knotted edge, the one used on hand-sewn buttonholes.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
| Problem | Why it happens | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric shows between stitches | Stitches spaced like blanket stitch | Bring each stitch up touching the previous one; add one more stitch where gaps appear. |
| The ridge twists or rolls | Thread pulled too hard or not under the needle tip | Check the loop before each pull; pull towards the base line, not upwards. |
| Puckered fabric | Slack hoop, tight stitches | Tighten the hoop; pull each stitch only until it lies flat. |
| Uneven top edge | No upper guide line | Mark the upper line, or pad the area so the stitches have an edge to follow. |
| Bulky centre on a wheel | Every stitch going into one hole | Stop every second stitch just short of the centre. |
Where to Use Buttonhole Stitch
- Scalloped edges on napkins, tablecloths, collars and baby bibs.
- Cutwork, where the fabric inside a shape is cut away after stitching.
- Appliqué that needs a fully covered edge.
- Flowers, suns and wheels worked in a circle.
- Raised petals and wings in detached buttonhole stitch.
Buttonhole Stitch vs Blanket Stitch vs Satin Stitch
- Blanket stitch: the same movement with gaps between the stitches. Lighter and quicker; used on felt and blanket edges.
- Buttonhole stitch: stitches touching, with a firm looped ridge along the base. Used where the edge must hold.
- Satin stitch: a smooth, fully covered band with no looped edge. Better for filled shapes; less hard-wearing on a cut edge.
Patterns to Practise Your Stitches On
Once the stitch feels comfortable, try it on a complete design. These beginner-friendly patterns are a good place to start.
New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern
All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:
Buttonhole Stitch FAQ
Is buttonhole stitch the same as blanket stitch?
In hand embroidery they are worked the same way. Buttonhole stitch is packed so closely that the stitches touch; blanket stitch is spaced out.
How do I hand sew a buttonhole?
Mark the slit, work a line of small running stitches around it, cut the slit, then cover both edges with closely worked tailored buttonhole stitch, with the knotted edge on the cut, and finish each end with a few straight bar stitches.
What thread is best for buttonhole stitch?
A smooth, tightly twisted thread: perle cotton size 8 or 12, or one or two strands of stranded cotton for fine work.
Why does my buttonhole edge look loopy?
The stitches are too far apart or pulled unevenly. Bring each stitch up touching the last and pull until the loop just sits on the base line.
