Eyelet Embroidery: How to Stitch Eyelets by Hand

An eyelet is a small hole in the fabric, outlined and bound with close stitches so it cannot fray. Rows and clusters of eyelets create the light, lace-like look of broderie anglaise, the white-on-white embroidery on summer blouses, christening gowns and pillowcases. Eyelets can be round, oval, teardrop or petal-shaped, and they combine beautifully with satin stitch leaves and dots.

How to stitch an eyelet, in short: outline the circle with small running stitches, pierce the centre with an awl (or cut a cross for a bigger eyelet), fold the edges to the back, then cover the edge with close overcast stitches worked over the running stitch. Trim any fabric left on the back.

Eyelet stitch embroidery diagram: straight stitches worked from the edge of a circle into the centre hole, and a finished eyelet — Eyelet: each stitch goes from the outer circle down into the centre hole; on the right, the finished eyelet.

Difficulty	Beginner to intermediate
Used for	Broderie anglaise, lace effects, borders, flowers, lacing holes
Thread	1–2 strands of stranded cotton or fine perle cotton, usually matching the fabric
Needle	Sharp embroidery needle size 8–10, plus an awl or stiletto
Stitch size	Eyelets 2–8 mm across

What You Need

Firm, tightly woven cotton or linen that holds an edge. Loose weaves fray when cut. See our guide to transferring embroidery patterns to fabric.
An embroidery awl or stiletto to open small eyelets by pushing the threads apart, not cutting them.
Small sharp scissors for larger eyelets.
A tight hoop.

How to Stitch a Round Eyelet

Outline: work a ring of small running stitches around the marked circle.
Open the centre: for small eyelets, push the awl through the centre and turn it to widen the hole. For eyelets over 4 mm, cut a cross from the centre almost to the running stitch and fold the four flaps to the back.
Overcast: bring the needle up just outside the running stitch, take it down through the hole and come up again outside, next to the first stitch. Keep the stitches touching, all at the same angle.
Finish by running the thread under the stitches on the back.
Trim the folded fabric on the back close to the stitches.

Shaped Eyelets and Graduated Edges

Oval, teardrop and petal-shaped eyelets are worked the same way, with a cut down the length of the shape. For a richer look, make the overcast stitches longer on one side of the eyelet and shorter on the other, so the binding is wide at the base of a petal and narrow at its tip. Groups of five teardrop eyelets around a small round one make the classic broderie anglaise flower.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Problem	Why it happens	Fix
Edge frays	Running stitch missing or cut too close	Always outline first; cut only to the running stitch.
Gaps in the binding	Stitches spaced apart	Keep overcast stitches touching.
Hole closes up	Awl not turned long enough	Widen the hole again before overcasting, and pull stitches firmly towards the centre.
Uneven shape	Fabric slack	Tighten the hoop.