Back Stitch Embroidery: How to Stitch Smooth, Solid Lines

Back stitch (also written backstitch) makes a solid line of short, equal stitches. Each new stitch is made backwards: the needle comes up one stitch length ahead and goes down into the end of the previous stitch, so there are no gaps. It is the standard stitch for outlines, lettering and fine details such as whiskers, insect legs and facial features, and it is easy to unpick if a stitch goes wrong. How neat it looks comes down to two things: stitch length, and sharing the hole with the previous stitch.

How to do back stitch, in short: bring the needle up one stitch length along the line, take it down at the start, then come up one stitch length ahead of your last stitch and go back down into the end of it. Each stitch shares a hole with the one before, so the line is solid.

Difficulty	Beginner
Used for	Outlines, lettering, fine details, line drawings
Thread	1 strand for lettering and tiny details; 2 for most outlines; 3 or more for bold lines
Needle	Embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7–10
Stitch length	2–3 mm; 1–1.5 mm on tight curves and small letters

What You Need

• Fabric in a hoop, drum-tight. The needle has to go exactly into the previous hole, which is much easier on taut fabric.
• A marked line. Back stitch follows the drawing closely, so a clear line matters. See our guide to transferring embroidery patterns to fabric.
• A sharp embroidery needle. A fine needle (size 9–10) for 1 strand, a size 7–8 for 2–3 strands.
• Short thread lengths. About 40–45 cm. In back stitch the thread passes through every hole twice, so a long thread wears and frays before you reach the end.

How to Work Back Stitch

1. Bring the needle up one stitch length from the start of the line.
2. Go down at the start of the line. The first stitch is made backwards, towards the start.
3. Come up one stitch length ahead of where the thread last came up, on the line.
4. Go down into the end of the previous stitch, in exactly the same hole.
5. Repeat: one stitch length forward under the fabric, one back on top.
6. Shorten the stitches on curves and keep them the same length along straight parts.
7. Finish on the back by running the thread under a few stitches before cutting it.

Come up in empty fabric and go down into the shared hole, not the other way round. A needle coming up through an occupied hole tends to split the thread already there and makes the joins look ragged. Right-handed stitchers usually find it easiest to work from right to left.

Stitch Length on Curves and Corners

A back stitch line is a chain of short straight segments. On a curve, the shorter the segments, the smoother the line looks.

Line	Stitch length	Strands
Straight lines, gentle curves	2–3 mm	2
Tight curves, small circles	1–1.5 mm	1–2
Lettering, small text	1–2 mm	1
Whiskers, legs, antennae	1.5–2 mm	1

On a sharp corner, make a stitch end exactly on the corner point and start the next stitch from the same hole. The corner stays crisp instead of being cut off.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Problem	Why it happens	Fix
Small gaps between stitches	The needle went down next to the previous hole, not into it	Aim exactly into the end of the previous stitch. Taut fabric helps.
Curves look jagged or angular	Stitches too long for the curve	Shorten the stitches to 1–1.5 mm wherever the line bends.
Stitches of different lengths	Judging each stitch against the pattern line	Compare every new stitch with the previous one and keep the same length on straight parts.
Ragged, fuzzy joins	Coming up through the shared hole and splitting the thread	Come up in empty fabric and go down into the shared hole.
The thread frays and gets thinner	Thread too long: it passes through each hole twice	Use 40–45 cm lengths and start a new thread as soon as it looks worn.
Dark lines show through light fabric	The thread is carried across the back between separate lines	End the thread and start again, or weave it under stitches on the back.

Where to Use Back Stitch

• Outlines. Around filled shapes, often added last so it sits neatly on top of the fill edge.
• Lettering. Names, dates and small words, in 1 strand for small text.
• Fine details. Whiskers, insect legs and antennae, eyelashes, beaks, the veins of a leaf.
• Line-art designs. Whole pictures worked only in outline, in one or several colours.
• Straight architectural lines. Window frames, roofs, fences and boat masts.

Back Stitch vs Stem Stitch vs Split Stitch

• Back stitch: crisp, fine and slightly segmented. Best for straight lines, lettering and tiny details.
• Stem stitch: overlapping stitches make a twisted, rope-like line. Smoother on curves and slightly thicker, so it is the usual choice for flower stems.
• Split stitch: each stitch comes up through the previous one, giving a smooth, unbroken line. Also used as an edge under satin stitch.
• Whipped back stitch: a second thread wrapped around a back stitch line turns it into a smooth cord. For a decorative wavy line over back stitch, see threaded running stitch.

For an overview of all the basic stitches, see our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.

Practice on a Real Pattern

Every pattern below uses back stitch, along with other basic stitches. The first three are beginner-friendly patterns.

New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern

All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:

Back Stitch FAQ

How many strands should I use for back stitch?

Two strands for most outlines, one for lettering and fine details such as whiskers. Three or more give a bold line but make curves harder to keep smooth.

Should I use back stitch or stem stitch for outlines?

Back stitch for straight lines, small text and fine details; stem stitch for flowing curves and stems.

How do I back stitch smooth curves?

Make the stitches shorter, around 1–1.5 mm, wherever the line bends. Long stitches turn a curve into a series of corners.

Should I outline before or after filling a shape?

Usually after: the outline sits on top and covers the edge of the fill. Follow the order in your pattern if it gives one.

Browse all embroidery stitches →