Outline Stitch Embroidery: Smooth Lines and How It Differs from Stem Stitch

Outline stitch is a line of slightly overlapping stitches, each one starting halfway along the last, that forms a smooth, gently twisted line. It is the close twin of stem stitch: the needle moves the same way, but the working thread is kept on the opposite side. That small change turns the twist the other way and gives a flatter, crisper edge, which is why outline stitch is a favourite for outlining shapes, writing names and drawing fine details.

How to do outline stitch, in short: working along the line, bring the needle up, take it down a stitch length ahead and bring it back up halfway between, keeping the working thread above the needle (on the side away from you). Repeat, always keeping the thread on the same side, so each stitch overlaps the last by half.

Difficulty	Beginner
Used for	Outlines, lettering, fine stems, facial features, borders
Thread	1–2 strands of stranded cotton for fine lines; 3 for bolder ones
Needle	Embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7–9
Stitch size	2–4 mm; shorter on tight curves

What You Need

• A clearly marked line. Outline stitch follows the line exactly, so a sharp, thin transfer line pays off. See our guide to transferring embroidery patterns to fabric.
• Fabric in a hoop, firm but not stretched out of shape.
• A smooth thread. Stranded cotton or perle cotton shows the twist best; very fuzzy threads hide it.

How to Work Outline Stitch

1. Bring the needle up at the start of the line (A).
2. Take the needle down one stitch length further along the line (B).
3. Bring it back up halfway between A and B (C), with the working thread lying above the needle.
4. Pull through gently, so the stitch lies flat on the line.
5. Take the next stitch one stitch length ahead of B and come up again at B. Keep the thread above the needle for every stitch.
6. Finish by taking the needle down at the end of the line, inside the last stitch.

The single rule is consistency. If the thread switches sides even once, the twist changes direction and the line shows a kink.

Outline Stitch vs Stem Stitch

Both stitches are worked with the same movement. The only difference is where the working thread lies while you make each stitch:

• Outline stitch: thread kept above the needle. The stitches slant one way and the line has a smooth upper edge, like a fine cord.
• Stem stitch: thread kept below the needle. The stitches slant the other way and the line looks more like a twisted rope.

Some older books use the names the other way round, so check the diagram rather than the name. In practice, outline stitch is often used for the inner side of a curve and stem stitch for the outer side, because each one rolls neatly in its own direction. Many stitchers simply pick the one that looks smoother on the curve in front of them.

Curves, Points and Thickness

• Curves: shorten the stitches. On a tight curve, stitches of 1.5–2 mm follow the line without corners.
• Sharp points: finish the line at the point, then start a new line going the other way. Turning a sharp corner in one line leaves a gap.
• A thicker line: overlap the stitches more (come up a third of the way back instead of halfway), add strands, or work two lines side by side.
• A filled shape: rows of outline stitch worked close together fill leaves and petals with a fine, ribbed texture.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Problem	Why it happens	Fix
Line has a kink	Thread switched sides	Keep the thread above the needle for every stitch.
Gaps between stitches	Coming up beyond the halfway point	Come up exactly halfway, or a little further back for a solid line.
Corners on curves	Stitches too long	Shorten the stitches on the curve.
Fabric puckers	Stitches pulled tight	Pull only until the stitch lies flat; check the hoop.

Where to Use Outline Stitch

• Outlines around filled shapes, leaves, animals and lettering.
• Names and words: see our guide to embroidering letters and names by hand.
• Fine stems, tendrils and whiskers.
• Facial features: eyelids, mouths, noses.
• Ribbed fillings in rows.

Outline Stitch vs Split Stitch vs Back Stitch

• Outline stitch: smooth, slightly twisted line; very good on curves.
• Split stitch: each stitch pierces the previous one, giving a chain-like line; ideal as padding under satin stitch.
• Back stitch: separate stitches end to end; the most precise line for small details and text.

For an overview of all the basic stitches, see our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.

Patterns to Practise Your Stitches On

Once the stitch feels comfortable, try it on a complete design. These beginner-friendly patterns are a good place to start.

New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern

All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:

Outline Stitch FAQ

Is outline stitch the same as stem stitch?

Almost. The needle moves the same way, but the working thread is kept on the opposite side, so the twist runs the other way. Outline stitch gives a slightly flatter, crisper line.

Which way should the thread go in outline stitch?

Above the needle, on the side away from you, for every stitch.

How many strands should I use?

One or two strands for fine outlines and lettering; three for a bolder line.

Is outline stitch good for beginners?

Yes. It is one of the first line stitches to learn, together with back stitch and running stitch.

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