Chain Stitch Embroidery: How to Work Even Loops and Neat Lines

Chain stitch is a line of linked loops: each loop is held in place by the next one, so the finished line looks like a little chain. It gives a thicker, more textured line than back stitch, follows curves well and can be worked in rows to fill a shape. A single chain loop tied down on its own is the detached chain, better known as the lazy daisy stitch, and chain stitch worked with a hook instead of a needle is tambour work. The stitch itself is easy. What makes it look neat is even stitch length, gentle tension and a proper finish on the last loop.

How to do chain stitch, in short: bring the needle up on the line, take it down at the same hole, and bring the tip up one stitch length further along with the thread looped under the tip. Pull until the loop lies flat, then start the next stitch inside that loop. Finish with a tiny stitch over the last loop.

Difficulty	Beginner
Used for	Outlines, stems, lettering, decorative lines, fills worked in rows
Thread	2–3 strands of stranded cotton for outlines; 4–6 strands or perle cotton for a bold line
Needle	Embroidery (crewel) needle; a chenille needle for perle cotton or wool
Stitch length	3–5 mm on straight lines, 2–3 mm on tight curves

What You Need

• Fabric in a hoop. Taut fabric keeps the loops the same size. Without a hoop it is easy to pull the line into puckers.
• A clearly marked line. Chain stitch covers the line well, but loops wander on an unmarked curve. On long lines, dots at stitch-length intervals help keep every loop the same.
• A needle with a sharp tip. You come up inside the previous loop each time, and a sharp needle is easier to place there without catching the thread.

How to Work Chain Stitch

1. Bring the needle up at the start of the line (A). Pull the thread through.
2. Take the needle back down at A, in the same hole or right next to it, and bring the tip up one stitch length further along the line (B). Do not pull it through yet.
3. Loop the thread under the needle tip, from one side to the other.
4. Pull the needle through gently until the loop lies snugly around the thread at B. Stop while the loop is still round, not flattened.
5. Start the next stitch inside that loop: go down at B, inside the loop and just beside the thread, and come up one stitch length further on (C). Loop the thread under the tip and pull through.
6. Finish the line by taking the needle down just outside the last loop, so a tiny straight stitch holds it in place.

Always loop the thread under the needle in the same direction. If you switch sides, the loops start to lean and the line looks twisted.

Curves, Corners and Closed Shapes

• Curves. Shorten the stitches. Long loops cut across a curve and make it look like a polygon.
• Sharp corners. Tie down the last loop at the corner with a small stitch, then come back up inside that same loop and start the new direction from there.
• Circles and closed shapes. When you reach the first loop, slide the needle under it without piercing the fabric, then go back down inside the last loop. The join disappears into the chain.
• Filling a shape. Work rows of chain side by side, starting at the outline and following its shape inwards, or in a spiral. Keep rows close so no fabric shows between them.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Problem	Why it happens	Fix
Loops are thin and flat	The thread was pulled too tight	Pull only until the loop sits against the thread and stays round.
Loops of different sizes	Stitch length or tension changes along the line	Mark dots at even intervals and pull each loop the same way.
The last loop flaps loose	The end was not tied down	Finish with a small straight stitch over the far end of the last loop.
The thread splits or the previous loop gets pierced	The needle went down through the thread instead of beside it	Go down inside the loop, right next to the thread, not on top of it.
Curves look jagged	Stitches too long for the curve	Use 2–3 mm stitches on curves and keep the needle on the marked line.
The line twists or loops lean sideways	The thread twisted, or it was looped from different sides	Let the needle hang to untwist every few stitches; always loop from the same side.

If a whole line came out too tight, unpick it rather than tug the loops looser: stretched loops never sit evenly again.

Chain Stitch Variations

• Reverse chain stitch. Worked backwards: start with a small straight stitch, then bring the needle up ahead and slide it under that stitch without piercing the fabric before going down at the same hole. Easier to keep even than ordinary chain stitch.
• Heavy chain stitch. Each new loop passes under the two previous loops instead of one, giving a thick, braid-like line for bold outlines.
• Whipped chain stitch. A second thread is wrapped over the finished chain without going into the fabric, turning it into a raised cord, often in a contrasting colour.
• Cable chain stitch. A twist of thread around the needle between loops leaves a short straight link between each chain loop.
• Open chain stitch. Each loop is anchored wide at both sides, making a ladder-like line that can be threaded with ribbon.
• Detached chain. A single loop tied at the tip: the lazy daisy stitch.

Where to Use Chain Stitch

• Stems and vines. A curving chain line gives a stem more weight than back stitch.
• Lettering. Names and short words in chain stitch read clearly from a distance.
• Bold outlines. Around shapes that need a strong, textured edge.
• Fills. Rows or spirals of chain create a textured fill for tree trunks, hair, fur or bold shapes.
• Borders. Straight or wavy chain lines along the edge of a design, alone or in two colours side by side.

Chain Stitch vs Split Stitch vs Stem Stitch

• Split stitch: the needle comes up through the middle of the previous stitch. From a distance it can look like a fine chain, but it is flatter and smoother, good for outlines under satin stitch.
• Stem stitch: overlapping stitches that form a twisted rope. Thinner than chain and very smooth on curves.
• Lazy daisy: one chain loop on its own, tied down at the tip. Used for petals and leaves rather than lines.

Choose chain when you want a line with texture and weight; stem or split when you want a fine, smooth one. For an overview of all the basic stitches, see our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.

Practice on a Real Pattern

This pattern uses chain stitch, along with other basic stitches.

New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern

All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:

Chain Stitch FAQ

How do you end a chain stitch line?

Take the needle down just beyond the last loop, making a tiny straight stitch over it. Without it, the last loop pulls open.

How many strands should I use for chain stitch?

Two or three strands of stranded cotton for most outlines. Use four to six strands, or perle cotton, for a bold decorative line.

Which direction should I work chain stitch?

Most people find it easiest to work towards themselves, turning the hoop as the line changes direction. What matters more is looping the thread from the same side every time.

What is the difference between chain stitch and lazy daisy?

Lazy daisy is a single chain loop tied down on its own. Chain stitch links the loops into a continuous line.

Browse all embroidery stitches →