Chain Stitch Variations: Reverse, Detached, Whipped, Twisted, Heavy and Cable Chain

Once you can work chain stitch, a whole family of lines opens up. Small changes to where the needle goes, or a second pass with another thread, turn the same loop into a cord, a braid, a twisted rope or a single petal. This guide covers the six chain stitch variations stitchers search for most, with the steps for each and the job each one does best.

In short: reverse chain is made by passing under the previous stitch; detached chain is a single loop; whipped chain is wrapped with a second thread; twisted chain crosses the thread for a rope look; heavy chain passes under two loops for a thick braid; cable chain adds a short straight link between loops.

Difficulty	Beginner to intermediate
Used for	Outlines, stems, borders, lettering, petals, thick braids
Thread	2–3 strands of stranded cotton, or perle cotton for braids
Needle	Embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7–9; a tapestry needle for whipping and lacing
Stitch size	Loops 2–4 mm

1. Reverse Chain Stitch

Reverse chain stitch, also called broad chain, looks like ordinary chain stitch but is made from the other end. It gives very even loops and is easy to keep straight.

1. Make a small straight stitch at the start of the line.
2. Bring the needle up one stitch length further along.
3. Slide the needle under the straight stitch from right to left without entering the fabric.
4. Go down where you came up. The first loop forms.
5. Come up one stitch length further on and slide under the previous loop. Repeat.

2. Detached Chain Stitch

A single chain loop held by a tiny stitch at its tip. It is the same as the lazy daisy stitch: arranged in a ring it makes a flower, scattered it makes leaves, petals or seeds.

1. Bring the needle up and go down in the same hole, leaving a loop.
2. Come up inside the loop at its tip.
3. Take a tiny stitch over the loop to hold it.

3. Whipped Chain Stitch

A line of chain stitch wrapped with a second thread, which turns it into a smooth, raised cord. Use a contrasting colour for a striped effect.

1. Work a line of chain stitch.
2. Bring a second thread up at the start.
3. Slide the needle under each chain loop in turn, always from the same side, without entering the fabric.

4. Twisted Chain Stitch

Each loop is twisted, giving a textured, rope-like line that is good for stems and branches. Worked very closely, it becomes rope stitch.

1. Bring the needle up on the line.
2. Take it down a little to the left of the line, outside the loop, and bring it up on the line below, so the needle slants.
3. Wrap the thread under the needle tip and pull through.
4. Repeat, keeping the stitches small and close.

5. Heavy Chain Stitch

Heavy chain, or heavy braid chain, produces a thick, firm line that looks like a plait. It is excellent for bold outlines and borders.

1. Make a small straight stitch at the start.
2. Come up a little further along, slide under the straight stitch and go down where you came up.
3. Come up one stitch further on and slide under the two previous loops together, then go down where you came up.
4. Continue, always passing under the last two loops.

6. Cable Chain Stitch

Each chain loop is joined to the next by a short straight link, like a chain of jewellery. It is a decorative outline and a pretty way to stitch necklaces or garlands.

1. Bring the needle up on the line.
2. Wrap the thread once around the needle.
3. Take the needle down a short way along the line and bring it up again further on, with the thread under the tip.
4. Pull through: a straight link and a loop form together. Repeat.

Which Variation to Choose

You need	Use
An even, easy chain	Reverse chain
Single petals or leaves	Detached chain (lazy daisy)
A smooth, raised cord	Whipped chain
A textured stem	Twisted chain
A thick, plaited border	Heavy chain
A decorative linked line	Cable chain

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Problem	Why it happens	Fix
Loops of different sizes	Pulling unevenly	Pull each loop to the same size before the next stitch.
Line wanders	No marked line	Mark the line and follow its centre.
Fabric caught when whipping	Sharp needle	Use a blunt tapestry needle for the second thread.
Heavy chain too thin	Passing under only one loop	Always slide under the last two loops.

For the basic stitch, see chain stitch embroidery, and for every stitch in one place, our complete guide to hand embroidery stitches.

Patterns to Practise Your Stitches On

Once the stitch feels comfortable, try it on a complete design. These beginner-friendly patterns are a good place to start.

New to Embroidery? Start with a Free Pattern

All of our free embroidery patterns in one place:

Chain Stitch Variations FAQ

What is the easiest chain stitch variation?

Detached chain (lazy daisy) and reverse chain are the easiest. Reverse chain is often easier to keep even than plain chain stitch.

Is detached chain the same as lazy daisy?

Yes. A detached chain is a single chain loop held by a tiny stitch; lazy daisy is the name used when the loops form a flower.

Which chain variation is thickest?

Heavy chain stitch, because each stitch passes under the two loops before it.

Browse all embroidery stitches →